Fairy Chimneys and Hot Air Balloons

Sunrise in Cappadocia

A mystical land exists in the semiarid lands of central Turkey.  Much of Cappadocia consists of white volcanic rock called tufa.  Rain and wind have shaped the soft tufa into rhythmic waves, tall cones and columns.  While walking through these fascinating formations we were reminded of hiking in Bryce Canyon. 

Homes Carved into the Tufa

Randall and Me in the Balloon Basket

One morning we rose early to fly over this fanciful landscape and in a hot-air balloon.  As we floated, we watched in awe as the sun rise and slowly lit the fairy chimneys below.  Upon landing we toasted our flight with mimosas made with local cherry juice and champagne.

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The land is highly fertile - apricots, melons, grapes and tomatoes flourish.   People have inhabited the region since ancient times.  Local inhabitants used hand tools to hollow out thousands of the freestanding tufa formations.  These cave-like rooms, carved from the living rock, once sheltered Turkey’s early Christians.  A few are still in use today as comfortable houses, complete with doors and glass windows.  They stay quite cool in the hot summers and warm in the cold winters .

Dried Fruits and Vegetables in the Market

The Mayor of Hacibaktas

Baking Bread before Lunch

Our Hosts for Lunch

I mentioned earlier that most Turks are Muslim.  Of them about 80% are Sunni and 20% Alevis or Shia.  The majority Sunnis have advantages the Alevis don't - their religion that is supported by the government, Sunni beliefs are taught in the schools and all mosques are Sunni.  In order to protect their customs and beliefs the Alevis tend to live in rural communities or in enclaves within larger cities.  We had the opportunity to visit an Alevis village to learn more about these wonderful people.   Our visit started with a conversation with the mayor who answered our questions...  

• Q: If all mosques are Sunni, where do you worship?  A:  We have buildings where we meet but they are not officially recognized as mosques on maps. 
• Q: Do you receive support from the government for your imams and mosques as the Sunnis?  A:  No, we support them ourselves.
•  Q:  Where do your children go to school?  A:  To the public schools.  The secular education good, but they are taught Sunni beliefs as part of the curriculum.  We are concerned as recently the government is introducing much more religious education into the curriculum.  etc...

After visiting with the mayor we adjourned to village homes for lunch and conversation.  We discovered warm and vibrant people.  Their women are bare-headed, vivacious and assertive.  Their young people were dressed in shorts.  Yes, shorts in this nation of conservative dress and many women wearing headscarves, particularly in the countryside.  

Tomorrow we drive to Konya where we will do a home stay with a local family.  I suspect this will be a real adventure, but you'll have to wait a few days to hear about it as we'll have no Internet there.